Pearls have always been a timeless gemstone, worn by famous figures from Queen Elizabeth I to Audrey Hepburn. While they may have garnered a reputation for being old-fashioned, pearls have recently been enjoying a renaissance in the fashion world since the runway shows of September 2018.
Far from being your grandmother’s pearls, these new statement pieces are bold and brash, and they’re quickly becoming a staple in the high fashion world. Designers have been reinventing the usually subtle stone in innovative ways – they’ve been spotted adorning everything from Alexander McQueen’s models to Polish brand Magda Butrym’s shoes. Irregularly-shaped pearls, clusters and unusual colours are, especially in vogue.
The trend bodes well for Australia, which is home to some of the rarest and most prized pearls of all: the South Sea pearls. Found on the seabed in the pristine waters of the Kimberley region, the South Sea pearl oyster produces large, silvery-white stones of exceptional quality. Here are some Australian designers taking the iridescent gemstone to the next level.
Paspaley
With over 80 years of experience in crafting luxurious pearl jewellery, Paspaley is Australia’s largest and oldest pearl company. Self-described as a purveyor of ‘the most beautiful pearls in the world’, the company’s design philosophy pays homage to the splendour of nature and the local environment with their stunning collections.
Paspaley was created by Greek refugee Nicholas Paspaley Senior, and the company still honours its roots by using traditional oyster-harvesting methods and handmade workmanship in combination with cutting-edge modern technology.
Their iconic designs are the height of luxury. Some pieces have been displayed at the Smithsonian, and others have fetched hefty prices at international auctions – one natural pearl strand was snapped up for USD 1.2 million, while a pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings were sold for USD 830 000.
Modern, wearable and adventurous, the range is guaranteed to have something for everyone. The Lavalier collection gives customers the chance to create their own unique piece. Select your favourite pearl to be encased in an 18-karat gold mesh net inspired by oyster divers’ nets.
Autore
Created in 1991 by founder and CEO Rosario Autore, Sydney-based Autore is another one of the largest South Sea pearl companies. The brand harvests over 300 000 pearls every year from Broome and the islands of Lombok, Java and Sumatra in Indonesia.
Their innovative designs have received international acclaim, winning multiple accolades such as the ‘Best in Pearls’ award at Couture Las Vegas. The winning Dragon Necklace draws inspiration from the Nine-Dragon Wall in Beijing’s Forbidden City and is festooned with South Sea Keshi pearls, diamonds, moonstones, mother-of-pearl and black diamond.
Another quirky design is a pink cockatoo brooch which celebrates native Australian wildlife with a body made from an 11mm pearl, decorated with white gold and pink and black diamonds. Astronomy enthusiasts will enjoy the spiral galaxy earrings constructed from pearls, 18-karat yellow gold, coloured diamonds and sapphires.
Willie Creek Pearls
Alongside harvesting pearls and crafting beautiful jewellery, this company offers an inside look into the pearling process by offering tours in Perth and Broome. Visitors can explore the farm, luggers and harvests or take scenic helicopter flights over the estuary.
The Banfield Family has been in the business for 30 years, perfecting the art of creating pearl pendants, earrings, necklaces, rings and bracelets. Invest in one of their simple yet elegant rings, made from 18-karat gold and a single pearl, for a classic look.
By Jennifer Luu